Much to love in the Black Hills of South Dakota

On our first trip to the west, I thought the Black Hills of South Dakota was just a stopping point to see Mount Rushmore. Little did I know that the area would soon become one of my favorite places. Bison herds, mountain lakes and ponderosa pines create a pristine atmosphere perfect for exploring. 

We stayed at one of Custer State Park’s nine campgrounds, Stockade North. Spacious lots and an abundance of trees made it feel like we were really in the wilderness. Fishing and swimming are easily accessible to campers in Stockade Lake, which is located right next to the campground. 

Needles Highway

Our first night was packed full of sightseeing opportunities. We decided to take the scenic route and drive the 14-mile Needles Highway to reach Mount Rushmore. 

Before we started climbing in elevation, the first thing I noticed was the vast amount of aspen and birch trees. They made a beautiful backdrop for the animals that make their home in the forest. We quickly spotted many deer eating close to the road, oblivious to visitors. 

Needles Highway was completed in 1922 after being planned by former South Dakota Gov. Peter Norbeck. He wanted to make a way for people to see the large granite outcroppings at the top of the mountain without disturbing the animals and land. He had to mark the entire course by horseback riding and hiking because the area was so remote and inaccessible.

Needles Highway was definitely not the fastest way to Mount Rushmore. Sharp turns, cliffs and a series of tunnels made traveling slow. Driving slowly was not a bad thing, especially when it gave us time to admire our surroundings. 

The tunnels were created by blasting dynamite in granite. Our SUV fit snugly; I could reach out and touch the walls. In winter months, the road is closed and RVs are never permitted on the highway. The park system does offer open-air jeep tours. 

There was a small traffic jam before the last tunnel on the highway. I got out to see what was happening ahead of us. A mountain goat was drinking water that had seeped into the tunnel. It continued to slowly lap up water as a car inched forward. 

Like us, most of the other people were delighted to see the mountain goat up close. It did not seem to care or even notice the cars and pedestrians. It took a few minutes for it to finish drinking and skedaddle up the granite boulders outside the tunnel. 

After we finally had our turn to go through the tunnel, we reached the most famous part of the highway, the eye of the needle. The Needle’s Eye is a giant hole in a granite spire created by erosion. Wind and rain carved out the signature slit in the rock. 

Mount Rushmore

We arrived at Mount Rushmore right at sunset. Trails beyond the amphitheater allow visitors to view the monument from different angles. We hiked up and down the numerous flights of stairs reaching the platforms out of breath but in awe of the massive monument. 

We were leaving just as lights illuminated the 60-foot faces carved in granite of U.S. Presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt. With patriotic music playing in the background and the 50 flags representing the 50 states waving in the wind, I knew I was standing on sacred ground. 

Prior to gold miners and settlers in the late 19th century, the land was home to and held sacred by the Lakota Sioux. I can’t change history, but I can move forward with deep respect for the Lakota Sioux and the four presidents represented in the sculpture. 

We packed many other adventures into our short time at Custer State Park. We drove the 18-mile wildlife loop to see buffalo and burros up close. Prairie dogs and antelope were seen at home in the grasslands. 

Below the prairie, we explored Wind Cave National Park. It was named for the barometric winds still present at the entrance. At 149 miles of exploration, it is one of the longest caves in the world and has unique boxwork features within its passageways.

Our three days were not enough time to see everything, but it was enough time to recognize and appreciate the special features of the region. It was hard to leave when it was time to make the 8-hour drive to Wyoming.